Tuesday, September 15, 2009

My first yoked jeans. Wearable, at least.

I hadn't tried the PatternMaster yoked jeans draft before, and since our users group is doing a Pants Challenge this fall, it seemed like a good place to start.
Of course, I couldn't be content making a normal pair of jeans. Noooo. I had to put double welt pockets in the front instead of standard jeans pockets.
The pants turned out, well, wearable at least. As I like to say, "They won't scare the horses." I showed them at my users group meeting last Sunday and got a lot of very good feedback.

Here's the front view:
 
Right off the bat, there are a few things that need to be changed for the next pair. I used too much ease for jeans; I need to reduce the hip and crotch ease to zero. The character of the denim fabric will provide enough flexibility to make them comfortable. True jeans are supposed to be snug.
Also, the boot cut flare is too wide. It's interesting: I specified an 18" hem circumference, but they drafted at a little more than 24". I'm not sure why it happened; perhaps because I widened the knee a bit. Have to go back into the program and play with it. One thing is for sure: I'm very grateful that the "Finished Garment Dimensions" is now part of the summary sheet created for each pattern.
Here's the pocket:

I'm still pretty new at doing welt pockets. For these, the lips didn't quite meet. As a result, it looks like the pockets are stressed and gapping. Not very attractive. Also, they're too low down; my group members recommended that I have the pocket openings right under the waistband, and to make them single welts instead, so they aren't as subject to the gappy look.

And now, the back view:
 
I'm actually quite happy with how they look from the back. Again, there's a bit too much ease, but they're certainly wearable. The back seam is a little wonky because I had to take 3" out of the yoke at the center. When I first put the pants together and tried them on, there was a HUGE gap at the back waist. So I pinched out the excess and resewed the center back. Again, I'm not sure where the discrepancy happened; I'll have to go back and look at my settings.
I'm going to make another pair of yoked jeans, but I might just draft my own yoke rather than using the yoked draft. We'll see how the next pair turns out!

2 comments:

  1. For your first try, it isn't too bad. Once you are able to make the adjustments you mentioned, your next pair should be a near perfect fit. Great view from the back. lol

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  2. These are looking quite good for a first try. You are not far away from a perfect pair. I got Kenneth King's 'Trouser Draft' in the mail today. I was curious to see his 'take' on fitting trousers.

    Hope to see your next 'try' soon. Like the colour of these BTW.
    Heather

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