Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Simply Satisfying Sewing: A Tale of Two Pullovers

Yesterday I had the urge to do some real simple sewing, and make myself a few knit pullover tops. These are the kind that I love to wear: three-quarter sleeve, scoop neck, not too loose. So I decided to do a little experiment: draft one with PatternMaster Boutique, and one with Curves (both from Wild Ginger).


Here's the thing: PMB is really meant for drafting patterns using woven fabrics, while Curves is meant for knits. But many people do use PMB to draft knit garments (I've done it myself). I thought it would be interesting to try them both.

The first top was drafted as a no-closure blouse, with three-quarter sleeves, armscye princess darts in the front, and zero ease all around. I didn't scale the pattern for the knit fabric.

Front view:
Not bad, but a bit on the loose side, which surprised me. And the sleeves were certainly too loose (partly my fault... I really should have checked the hem circumference setting).

Back view:
The back view shows better just how loose and floppy this top is. Not unwearable, but not quite the look I was after.

This morning I drafted the same top in Curves. I used zero ease again, and specified a 10% horizontal stretch. I also shortened the sleeves and narrowed the sleeve hem circumference.

What a difference! It's much snugger, fitting just the way I like.

Back view:
It fits a lot better in the back as well. Yeah, there's a bit of wrinkling at the waist where it rides up my hip... but I don't mind that. A bit of hip ease in the next version will fix that.

I finished the hem, cuffs and neckline with a triple coverstitch, for no particular reason other than I hadn't tried that stitch before and it seemed high time. I really do like how flat it sits against my neck!

I look forward to getting a lot of wear from these shirts... although I'll probably take in the first one before adding it to my closet.

8 comments:

  1. Love the Curves version and the Jacobean fabric. Very flattering.

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  2. The tops turned out really nice! And they do look comfy!

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  3. Your triple cover stitch looks great!!

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  4. Wow, the fit difference is amazing. Since I have curves, I'm going to draft my fave shoulder princess t-shirt in curves and compare it to the PMB version that I'd been using for my knit shirts up until now. -Andie

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  5. What did you use for the neckline setting in Curves? It looks great on you, very flattering!

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  6. Tami, I used a scoop neck with a depth of 3 and a width of 2. After much experimentation, I've found this is the combo that looks best on me.

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  7. Thanks! I'm going to start from there myself. That's a good neckline for me too. The difference in the 2 tops is amazing. I liked the Boutique one until I scrolled down and saw the Curves version.

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  8. I've been wondering about the Curves program - and what a difference in fit between your two tops! I may have to consider getting it, though I would be frustrated not having a cover-stitch machine/-capable machine, and I haven't really used my PMB much yet - I lost weight and have to redo all my measurements, and just haven't gotten around to that.
    I do love knit tops though... hmm

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