Monday, June 11, 2012

Otakon 2012: Cruella De Vil

Last night I got started with the first muslin for Diana's Cruella De Vil costume. Of the three costumes, this one should be the easiest, as it is just a simple "little black dress". But this is Diana we're talking about, so of course she had some definite ideas on what the dress would look like, and gave me a few sketches:

Rather than do an exact copy of the movie costume, she wants to do an "interpretation", to be slightly less wacky and a little more sophisticated. I'm actually going to get away with not making a fur coat, as she found an inexpensive faux fur jacket on the web for only $26 (and I really couldn't even buy the faux fur fabric for that little). But she has definite ideas about the dress, especially the neckline.
See the little pleats at the shoulders? I figured I could draft the top with a shoulder dart and just pleat the dart rather than sewing it. So I made the first muslin and she tried it on last night.
Front view:
The pleated dart really doesn't give the effect she wanted. Also, I added an inch of blousing to the bodice, so the waistline sits too low... will have to correct that in the next version.

Back view:

The dress has a side seam zipper. I'm probably going to cut the next back on the fold to eliminate the center back seam. The kick pleat is supposed to be an inverted box pleat, and will have a contrast bow trim at the top (held on with snaps, so it can be changed out). She will also add a wide black leather belt. The dress itself will be made from some raw silk I have in my stash, and I will be lining it (with what, I don't yet know).

So what should I do about that neckline? She also wants the Vee to be lower by about an inch. Her sketches have a scoop neck but she thought the Vee would look more sophisticated. Now we're thinking about a square neckline, but I don't think we can get the same shoulder pleating effect. Should I just add a bust dart to the side seam and then treat the pleating as a design effect, rather than trying to use it as the bust dart?
Just about six weeks to go to get all the costumes done. Fabric has arrived for the Maleficent and Jafar costumes; I'm now trying to figure out how to engineer Maleficent's horns and Jafar's huge turban. I got two packages of Inn-Spire heat-set interfacing, thanks to a suggestion from a reader (thanks, Virginia!), and will see if that does the job. Stay tuned!

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